Stage 2 – Cutting and Grinding

I keep a broad selection of glass from which I select the pieces I need, although sometimes I may order unusual pieces as I require them. I obtain most of my glass from Creative Glass who can provide a next working day delivery if required. Each piece is cut by hand and ground to the exact shape I require. Each piece of lead came is measured and cut to fit using a lead knife.

Stage 3 Laying out and pinning

The lead came and the glass are laid out together inside a two sided frame (Assuming that the panel is rectangular. If the panel is an unusual shape a custom made wooden former will need to be constructed to keep the panel in place). Starting in the corner of the frame, begin by laying the edge strip of lead came. Fit the glass into this one piece at a time, fitting more lead came around each side. Use scraps of lead came and horseshoe nails to pin the pieces into place as you work away from the corner. Depending upon the complexity of the panel you may need to solder some of the pieces together as you progress. However great care needs to be taken if you do this, because it is easy to get into difficulty when trying to fit other pieces of glass. This is particularly the case if the shapes are not geometric. Wherever possible you should try to leave all of the soldering until the whole panel has been fitted together and has been pinned in place.  

Stage 4 Preparing to solder

Each joint needs to be prepared for soldering. If you have cut your lead came carefully you shouldn't need to fill any gaps, but if you do, cut small slices of lead came and fit these into any gaps. You will need to cut the lead in half and fit one piece on either side of the glass.

Stage 5 Fluxing

Prior to soldering, each joint needs to be cleaned using a flux. For lead came use a Tallow candle (Available from stained glass specialist suppliers) Rub the joint liberally with the candle prior to soldering. This will melt when you apply the solder and will clean the surface of the came to create good adhesion of the solder. Dirty joints will not accept the solder as easily.

Stage 6 Soldering

Tools and materials - I use a Weller thermostatically controlled iron and 50/50 solder. The thermostatic iron keeps the iron tip at a constant temperature, which is designed to melt solder but not apply too much heat to the lead. All irons get hot enough to melt the lead as well as the solder and practice will teach you how long you can apply the iron before the lead disintegrates. Keep the iron tip clean by wiping it periodically on a wet sponge. Through practice you will learn how often to wipe the tip of the iron. I use an iron rest with a built in sponge and I wipe the solder after about every 5th or 6th joint. You will learn when the iron needs cleaning, as the joints will become difficult to solder if the iron tip becomes dirty. Apply a blob of solder to the joint and ensure that both pieces of lead you are joining are covered equally with solder. With practice you will learn how much solder to apply. This is a personal thing and depends upon the final finish that you wish to achieve. You may wish to apply the minimum amount of solder if you are trying to achieve a flush finish, or a large dome of solder if you want a rustic finish.

Stage 7 Cleaning

Clean the panel to remove all traces of flux. I wash panels using hot water and mild detergent (washing up liquid)

Stage 8 Cementing

Each piece of glass needs to be cemented into the lead came. Brush the cement into the lead using a nail brush or (something similar). Try to keep the excess to a minimum, as this will need to be cleaned off once the cement is dry. Lead cement has a very short shelf life. I therefore only purchase it in small amounts, enough for the project that I am working on. It is possible to extend the life of the cement a little by adding a suitable thinner. E.g. White spirit or turpentine, but in my experience once it begins to go dry it cannot be recovered.

Stage 9 Cleaning off Cementing

Clean the panel to remove all traces of cement from the glass surface.

Stage 10 Polishing

I use a Fire grate blacking compound to polish the lead and solder. Add a small bead to a soft cloth and rub onto the lead and solder. Leave to dry for a few minutes and then polish off with a soft cloth. This process can be repeated to build up a depth of colour and polish.

The finished panel

This is one of four identical panels made to match a customers existing fan light windows.
Size 420mm by 430mm each.

These panels would retail at approx £150 + VAT each